If someone had told me a couple of years ago that one February morning I’d pull on a wetsuit and run into the Atlantic Ocean waves, I would have said “yeah, right.” But that’s exactly what happened. Hendaye, this small French resort town on the Spanish border, is a place where even the most timid beginner can catch their first waves. And I’m living proof. Surfing in Hendaye was the best decision of my life!
Why Surfing in Hendaye Is Best for Beginners
The Basque Country coastline is a surfers’ paradise, but most beaches are quite intimidating for beginners. Big waves, strong currents, and experienced surfers zooming past you. Hendaye is a different story entirely. It’s called the Basque Country’s “green surf beach” because the dangerous currents (called baïnes in French) found elsewhere on the coast are absent here.
Hendaye beach is long and gently sloping, which means waves reach the shore calmly and lose their power gradually. Where elsewhere in the Basque Country waves are head-high, in Hendaye they’re often half that size. The perfect place to stand on a wave for the first time — or in my case, to almost stand on a wave for the first time and then fall into the water.
Surfing in February — Am I Crazy?
To be honest, February is actually one of the best times for surfing in Hendaye. Yes, the water is cold (11–14 degrees), but a proper full-length wetsuit keeps you warm. The winter swell is more consistent and the waves are cleaner than in summer. And best of all — the beach is empty! In summer it’s packed with people, but in February I was practically alone with my waves. Just a few other beginner surfers besides me.
The east wind blows offshore here, polishing the waves into beautiful peaks. And when storms rage elsewhere on the coast, Hendaye’s southern headland provides protection, so even in worse weather you can find suitable surfing conditions here.
Surf School or Solo?
I did both. On the first day, I took a lesson at Hendaia Surf School. It’s one of Hendaye’s oldest surf schools, operating since 2003. A lesson costs about €50–60 and you get boards, a wetsuit, and a professional instructor who teaches you everything from paddling to standing up on a wave. It was totally worth it.
The instructor immediately showed where the best waves are for beginners and gave tips that no YouTube video can convey. It looks simple, but the first hour is 90% just floundering in the water!
The rest of the week, I continued surfing in Hendaye independently. I rented a board and wetsuit and went to the beach early every morning. That’s the charm of Hendaye — the waves are calm enough that even a beginner can practise independently without major risks. Walking along the promenade with a surfboard makes you feel instantly a bit cooler.
My Surfing Week in Hendaye
My typical day looked something like this: a nice early wake-up, a calm coffee and croissant from the local bakery, and then to the beach. The morning hours are the best for surfing in Hendaye — fewer people and the wind hasn’t picked up yet. After a couple of hours of surfing (and believe me, it’s exhausting), I was already heading for food. Your stomach gets especially empty from all that floundering in the water.
Kooks Club — My Favourite Spot in Hendaye
And here we arrive at my absolute favourite spot in Hendaye — Kooks Club. It’s an Australian-vibed café near the beach (Avenue des Mimosas 17) that doubles as a vintage shop and surf shop. Imagine: you’re sitting on the terrace with wet hair, drinking a dirty chai and browsing through surf magazines. The whole atmosphere is so chill you never want to leave.
Their homemade baked goods are my favourites — definitely try the banana bread and cookies. Prices are reasonable (you can eat well for under €10) and WiFi is available too, if you need to squeeze in some work between surfing sessions. They have a perfect 5.0 rating on Tripadvisor, and I can only agree.
Practical Info
Location: Hendaye, France — on the Spanish border. 20 minutes by car from San Sebastián, about 30 minutes from Biarritz.
Best time for surfing: September to April (more consistent swell). Summer is calmer but more crowded.
Water temperature in winter: 11–14°C. A 4/3 wetsuit is mandatory.
Surf school price: From €30 per hour (board and wetsuit included).
Lunch: Kooks Club (Avenue des Mimosas 17) — best café near the beach.
Flying: Nearest airport is Biarritz-Anglet-Bayonne (BAQ), about 35 min by car from there.
A Hendaye sunset is something you won’t forget. After a long surf day, sitting on the beach and watching the sun sink into the Atlantic Ocean. The best way to end the day. And that’s exactly why I’m definitely coming back.
Our Recommendation
If you’ve ever thought about wanting to try surfing but it seemed too scary, or that real surfing paradises (Bali and Australia) are too far away, then surfing in Hendaye is exactly the right choice. You don’t need to be athletic, young, or experienced here. You just need to be ready to get wet and laugh at yourself a little. A total hidden gem in France.
The Basque Country is so different from Paris and all other tourist spots. I’m definitely coming back!
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